Alight here for the aurora borealis: on the Arctic Circle train to northern...
A 17-hour sleeper from Stockholm to Abisko, north of the Arctic Circle, reveals an epic landscape that is particularly beautiful during the ‘blue moment’As train adventures go, the journey from...
View ArticleStaying with a hunter showed me Greenland beyond the tourist brochures
In a new series about memorable encounters, the writer recalls the time she spent with a family whose way of life is threatened by the climate crisisIn mid-February, after months of darkness, the sun...
View ArticleMy voyage through a world of language in just one word: snow
Missing the wild regions where I have worked, I took a linguistic trip from Asia to the Andes, via Russia and Finland, insteadA few years ago I spent a winter on Upernavik, a rocky island of 1,000...
View ArticleMatthew Henson: the pioneering African-American Arctic adventurer
This multi-skilled explorer may well have been first to the North Pole – in 1909. What’s not in doubt is his resourcefulness and love of the InuitPassport detailsMatthew Alexander Henson, perhaps the...
View ArticleFrom summit to sea: a snowboarding adventure in the Arctic Circle
There are no lifts in Norway’s picturesque Lyngen Alps, so if you want to ride down a mountain to the shore you have to hike up it firstI’m on top of the world, in all senses of the term: we’re 500...
View ArticleWill giant cruise ships destroy the wonders their passengers claim to love? |...
Guides who shot a polar bear have been denounced as murderers. But what does that make the tourists who are ruining its fragile habitat?A special kind of shock comes with the shooting of a polar bear....
View ArticleNorway’s Arctic north: eco-cabins and sea eagles
A new activity resort brings guests right up against the wonders of the Arctic Circle, with floor-to-ceiling views over the fjords. Peter Carty is captivated by the flora, fauna and Norse mythologyIt...
View ArticleNights on ice in Sweden's Arctic wonderland
The new open-all-year ice hotel is the base for exploring the dramatic, snowy beauty of the frozen northThe teenage me, buried deep beneath midriff fat and caution, screamed yes at the thought of a...
View ArticleThe reindeer derby: a race across the Arctic Circle
This week, they’re working in tandem but from November to April, the reindeer of northern Finland also compete for the title of Reindeer KingI’m in the far north of Finland. The sky is a perfect blue;...
View ArticleIttoqqortoormiit, Greenland, one of the remotest settlements on Earth
Frozen in for nine months a year and sandwiched between the largest national park and longest fjord system in the world, the setting of this tiny outpost is stunningIttoqqortoormiit (formerly known as...
View ArticleIn the company of wolves: animal encounters in Narvik, Norway
After years of persecution, wolves are howling anew across Europe – and in the north of Norway an unusual zoo park is bringing them face-to-face with their nemesis: us I arrive after dark, driving past...
View ArticleOn my radar: Leanne Shapton’s cultural highlights
The Canadian writer and illustrator on her love of Ellsworth Kelly, her passion for proper doughnuts, and the wonders of King William IslandIllustrator, author and publisher Leanne Shapton grew up in...
View ArticleNorthwest Passage, Canada: going with the floe
Robin McKie finds life in the high Arctic a surprisingly chilled-out experience – even when a polar bear pays a visit…Journey through the Northwest Passage – in picturesIt was the sight of a beached...
View ArticleNome, Alaska: ‘The spring water is as hot as I can bear. The effect is...
TV presenter and comedian Alexander Armstrong discovers the secret of staying warm in AlaskaNome, in the north-west of Alaska, is an old gold-rush metropolis peopled by workers from out of town. It’s...
View ArticleTravel photo of the week: art in the Arctic at the SALT festival
Winter storms left the majestic architectural centrepiece of the SALT festival on the island of Sandhornøy, Norway, severely damaged. But after extensive rebuilding work, the experimental arts event...
View ArticleUnseasonably warm temperatures may have contributed to the deaths of two...
Police have called off the search for two Dutch scientists. Unusually thin ice likely played a role in their presumed death in the Canadian Arctic this weekIn a voicemail on Tuesday, Dutch researcher...
View ArticleBoundless by Kathleen Winter review – in the footsteps of John Franklin
A journey to the Northwest Passage inspires banal meditations on … whatever comes to mindOver the last 20 years nature writing has enjoyed a huge resurgence, taking over where travel writing left off....
View ArticleWeatherwatch: Snowburn in the frozen fjord
The British army officer and Arctic explorer Frederick Spencer Chapman was in Greenland on 28 March 1933. “Face very sore today. I always suffer more from sun and snowburn than from frostbite. Glorious...
View ArticleBoundless review – Kathleen Winter’s original take on the travel memoir
The Canadian novelist explores an epic inner and outer voyage through the Northwest PassageAfter the success of her 2010 novel about an intersex child, Annabel, the Canadian author Kathleen Winter has...
View ArticleTravel tips: sun rise in Svalbard, and deals of the week
See the sun’s first appearance in six months on an archipelago near the North Pole, plus free Landmark Trust visits and a new family-friendly hotel in SardiniaWhy go?The end of winter is always a cause...
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